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Techniques that allowed a heavier sole to be attached to a regular shoe were not developed until the 15 th century. Some had a hinged heel to make walking easier. The bottoms were made of wood or cork, with a leather strap to hold them to the foot. They were an overshoe that offered protection from wet and muddy streets. In the 14 th century, clogs or pattens also became common. It might have a sole added at this stage, but it could also be worn without one. Once completely dry, the shoe would be stiff again. This would have been done very carefully to prevent over-stretching the leather or tearing it. These types of shoes were made inside out, then soaked in a bucket of water until they were soft enough to turn them the right way.
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They were very plain, with no embellishments and flat soles. These ankle-high shoes had a triangular flap that folded over the ankle and stayed attached with a latchet or thongs. Turnshoes were the most popular type of medieval shoe, particularly in the northern regions. As hose became fashionable for men, soles were often sewn directly into the hose. Shoes were not always necessary, however. Leather shoes could be stamped, tooled, or decorated with cutouts. Early on, they remained relatively plain, but in the high and late Middle Ages they may have been elongated, pointed, and/or decorated with elaborate designs. The nobility wore a high quality close-toed slipper, the design of which changed with the fashions of the day. English peasants also wore a heavy shoe made of undressed leather with the hair on the outside. Peasants often wore poor quality knee-high boots that laced up the front. They might be made of leather, wool, fur, or wood. The types of shoes worn would be different depending on your trade, where you lived, and your social status. They were only permitted to repair shoes that had been made by someone else. Cobblers, however, did not make brand new footwear. Shoe and boot makers might be called cordwainers (12 th century on) or chaucers, and as was the case with most other medieval trades, they were regulated by guilds. As the Middle Ages progressed, and trade increased, higher quality leather became available, and the crusades exposed Europe to Byzantine styles. In colder regions these might have been lined with fur for warmth. They were largely stiff, poor quality, stitched leather wraps with laces to hold them to the ankle-not much better than walking barefoot. Early in the period, footwear was still influenced by the Romans and nomadic European tribes that came before.